![]() | Rock
River Valley Australian Shepherd Club Dedicated to the preservation of the Australian Shepherd as an all-around working dog established 1981 | ||||||
| Aussie
Information and Breed Standards General Information Questions to ask of breeders Thinking about breeding? ASCA Breed Standard Hereditary defects within the breed General Information The Australian Shepherd, better known
as the Aussie, and not to be confused with the Australian Blue Heeler,
was developed to be a The typical Aussie is an exuberant and energetic companion. Being bred to work hard all day means that most Aussies are not content to be couch potatoes, although each individual has a different character and there are some Aussies who are more sedate and laid-back than others. In general, however, these are high-energy dogs who need a purpose in their lives--some kind of job to do whether it is bringing in the sheep at night, fetching your slippers, or even playing ball every day (yes, they will come to see that as their "job"). Aussie owners must be committed to giving their dog the time & attention it requires through play and training. As with any dog with undirected energy, the Aussie can turn toward destructive behavior to keep itself occupied, making up games that you might not appreciate!
If you do decide that an Aussie is the dog for you be ready for a life-long commitment spanning 12 years or more as Aussies are generally healthy, long-lived animals. Puppyhood can often last until well after 2 years old and there are many dogs over the age of 8 years still competing in all areas. Don't expect your Aussie to act like an old dog just because he turns 5.
Questions to ask of breeders When choosing an Aussie it is important to consider the dependability of the breeder and the ancestry of the dogs being offered for sale. It is advisable to visit the breeder so that you can meet & examine the dogs for sale as well as the sire & dam. Never purchase a puppy or other dog if they appear unhealthy. Bright eyes, a cold nose, shiny coat, and a natural curiosity are good signs of health. Buying from a reputable breeder cannot be overemphasized enough! Reliable breeders will not knowingly mislead prospective puppy buyers, and most will guarantee their dogs against inheritable defects. A reputable breeder will stand behind their pups and should provide a contract at the time of sale. Beware of Aussies found for sale in pet shops. Often these pups are the result of puppy mills and are taken from their mother's at too early of an age. It is against ASCA's Code of Ethics for breeders to sell pups in pet shops. When you talk to a breeder, ask the following questions:
Things to think about before breeding your dog
It is extremely important to learn the facts and possible consequences in advance if you are contemplating breeding your dog. The number of unwanted puppies and adult dogs that get put to death in pounds each year is staggering. Millions die homeless & unwanted through starvation, disease, automobiles, abuse, etc. If you decide to breed your dog you are responsible for the puppies created from that breeding. Are you prepared to keep pups that don't sell? Will you carefully screen potential buyers? Will you take back puppies/dogs at any age if they are not fitting into their new home? Have you thought about the expense of making sure the parents & puppies are healthy? Are you willing to turn away potential buyers who may not be right for your puppy? Before deciding to breed your dog we ask that you consider the following points carefully.
In short, if you want to breed your dog then make sure you have the time, energy, and money to invest in becoming a professional, reliable breeder. This doesn't mean breeding several litters or even one litter every year. A reliable, professional breeder is one who has made a lifetime commitment to the well-being and improvement of one breed. They have studied & researched their chosen breed and know its history and standard, its strong points as well as its drawbacks. An investment has been made by them in time, effort, and money to research & prove the quality & health of their potential breeding stock. Those dogs that cannot prove themselves are not bred. Litters are planned with the goal of producing puppies better than their parents, not for profit or vanity. Once the pups are sold, these breeders will keep in periodic contact with their new owners, not only to see the development of the pups but because they care about their well-being. Responsible breeders build up good reputations slowly, based on dedication & consistent quality, not on volume of litters. ASCA Breed Standard AUSTRALIAN SHEPHERD BREED STANDARD EFFECTIVE JANUARY 15, 1977 GENERAL APPEARANCE: The Australian Shepherd is a well-balanced dog of medium size and bone. He is attentive and animated, showing strength and stamina combined with unusual agility. Slightly longer than tall, he has a coat of moderate length and coarseness with coloring that offers variety and individuality in each specimen. An identifying characteristic is his natural or docked bobtail. In each sex, masculinity or femininity is well defined. CHARACTER: The Australian Shepherd is intelligent, primarily a working dog of strong herding and guardian instincts. He is an exceptional companion. He is versatile and easily trained, performing his assigned tasks with great style and enthusiasm. He is reserved with strangers but does not exhibit shyness. Although an aggressive, authoritative worker, viciousness toward people or animals is intolerable. HEAD: Clean-cut, strong, dry and in proportion to the body. The topskull is flat to slightly rounded, its length and width each equal to the length of the muzzle which is in balance and proportioned to the rest of the head. The muzzle tapers slightly to a rounded tip. The stop is moderate but well-defined.
NECK AND BODY: The neck is firm, clean and in proportion to the body. It is of medium length and slightly arched at the crest, setting well into the shoulders. The body is firm and muscular. The topline appears level at a natural four-square stance. The chest is deep and strong with ribs well-sprung. The loin is strong and broad when viewed from the top. The bottom line carries well back with a moderate tuck-up. The croup is moderately sloping, the ideal being thirty (30) degrees from the horizontal. Tail is straight, not to exceed four (4) inches, natural bobtail or docked. FOREQUARTERS: The shoulder blades (scapula) are long and flat, close set at the withers, approximately two fingers width at a natural stance and are well laid back at an angle approximately forty-five (45) degrees to the ground. The upper arm (humerus) is attached at an approximate right angle to the shoulder line with forelegs dropping straight, perpendicular to the ground. The elbow joint is equidistant from the ground to the withers. The legs are straight and powerful. Pasterns are short, thick and strong, but still flexible, showing a slight angle when viewed from the side. Feet are oval shaped, compact, with close-knit, well-arched toes. Pads are thick and resilient; nails short and strong. Dewclaws may be removed. HINDQUARTERS: Width of hindquarters approximately equal to the width of the forequarters at the shoulders. The angulation of the pelvis and upper thigh (femur) corresponds to the angulation of the shoulder blade and upper arm forming an approximate right angle. Stifles are clearly defined, hock joints moderately bent. The metatarsi are short, perpendicular to the ground and parallel to each other when viewed from the rear. Feet are oval shaped, compact, with close-knit, well-arched toes. Pads are thick and resilient; nails short and strong. Rear dewclaws are removed. COAT: Of medium texture, straight to slightly wavy, weather resistant, of moderate length with an undercoat. The quantity of undercoat varies with climate. Hair is short and smooth on the head, outside of ears, front of forelegs and below the hocks. Backs of forelegs are moderately feathered; breeches are moderately full. There is a moderate mane and frill, more pronounced in dogs than bitches. Non-typical coats are severe faults.COLOR: All colors are strong, clear and rich. The recognized colors are blue merle, red (liver) merle, solid black, and solid red (liver) all with or without white markings and/or tan (copper) points with no order of preference. The blue merle and black have black pigmentation on nose, lips and eye-rims. Reds and red merles have liver pigmentation on nose, lips and eye rims. Butterfly nose should not be faulted under one year of age. On all colors the areas surrounding the ears and eyes are dominated by color other than white. The hairline of a white collar does not exceed the point at the withers.
Disqualifications: Other than recognized colors. White body splashes. Dudley nose. GAIT: Smooth, free and easy; exhibiting agility of movement with a well-balanced, ground covering stride. Fore and hind legs move straight and parallel with the center line of the body; as speed increases, the feet, both front and rear, converge toward the center line of gravity of the dog, while the topline remains firm and level. SIZE: Preferred height at the withers for males is 20 to 23 inches; that for females is 18 to 21 inches, however, quality is not to be sacrificed in favor of size. Other Disqualification: Monorchidism and cryptorchidism. Hereditary defects possible within the breedAlthough the Australian Shepherd is a
generally healthy breed
with a life expectancy of 12 years or more, there are some
hereditary problems to be aware of. Among these are Hip Dysplasia
& several different eye defects.
Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA) is a very serious eye disease with which Aussies can be affected. The end result of this disease is complete blindness. It is known that affected dogs inherit the gene from both parents meaning that both parents are carriers. All puppies from an affected dog will either have the disease or be carriers. PRA may not show up until later in a dogs life making yearly eye exams by a veterinary ophthalmologist necessary especially for potential breeding stock. Iris Coloboma is a defect that may be seen without special equipment and is especially noticeable in blue eyes. In these eyes the pupil appears to extend into the iris (colored part of the eye) often with a jagged edge. The breed standard calls for the pupil to be well-defined and perfectly positioned. Most dogs with Iris Coloboma appear to function normally, but there is evidence that this is inherited and affected dogs should not be bred. Juvenile cataracts are a serious defect as they also end in blindness. This is a disease and different than old age or senile cataracts. Again, a veterinary ophthalmologist would be needed to diagnose this disease in its early stages.
| |||||||